Standing just outside the Spanish Synagogue is a surreal bronze statue of Kafka depicted as a gnomish figure riding on the shoulders of a headless, handless, footless giant with a striking resemblance to the Golem of Prague.

Only erected in 2004, it’s a sign of Prague’s ambivalent attitude to Kafka. Born in Prague he wrote in German and has never been entirely accepted by Czechs as one of their own. However, that hasn’t stopped a small industry of cafés and restaurants around his old neighbourhood in the tourist-saturated Jewish quarter of Josefov from cashing in on his name.

If you’re a budding Kafka yourself head down to The Globe Bookstore & Coffeehouse, where Alchemy hosts organises readings and open mic sessions on the first Monday of every month (www.alchemy-prague.com).